Eating out in Japan should be one of the greatest experiences any travelling foreigner should ever encounter. Yet while it creates quite a lot of excitement for some (i.e. me. My mantra is “I can’t say I don’t like something if I haven’t tried it”) for many Japanese dining is cause for nerves and stress. Some worry that they may not understand the menu and end up with a plate full of sea creatures still alive enough to crawl down their throats, or that no-one in the restaurant will speak any English. Others worry about the cost too, which is definitely a concern in Tokyo – and I should know. A few months back, my boyfriend and I, on an impulse, ducked into a tiny teppanyaki restaurant in Roppongi. 2 hours and ¥70,000 yen later, we left full albeit a little dazed and confused too.

But a meal here with all the trimmings doesn’t ever need to cost you your month’s rent. An eatery in the heart of Ginza has the matters at hand covered, providing English and picture menus, the occasional bi-lingual waitress, along with a traditional Japanese dining experience.

Introducing Umenohana. Umenohana is actually a chain of restaurants found all across Japan that offers customers kaiseki style of dining within a small quiet dining area or in the privacy of your own tatami room. Kaiseki loosely translates to mean a customary multi-course meal and with Umenohana offering two set menus specializing in yuba (a tofu derivative) and tofu, this restaurant is a must-go for all foreigners in Japan.

Now for those of you unsure about tofu and yuba, let me assure you that I have taken even the most ardent “meat and potatoes” man to Umenohana and he loved it, even admitting that most of the time he could not tell it was tofu. In fact most people leave the place having learned a thing or two about tofu – firstly that it is incredibly delicious and secondly that they had no idea it could be prepared, cooked and served in such a variety of ways. I will let the photos speak for themselves…

As is customary with kaiseki dining, each portion is small, but with the courses number over 10 (I always lose count!), you will not leave hungry. The cost of the set menus are a very reasonable ¥4600 for Umenohana-zen and ¥5100 for Shiawase-zen and I recommend going at least twice as both menus are entirely different from each other. Drinks are not included in the price, but start around ¥530 for beer and shochu, going up to ¥5,500 for bottles of good quality sake.

Bookings are essential, particularly if you want to dine in a private tatami room (recommended, and at no extra cost too!) – use the opportunity to practice your Japanese over the phone. I always start off saying I do not speak Japanese very well and have my key phrases rehearsed concerning the time, day and number of people the reservation is, for and the receptionist has never been anything less than extremely helpful.

Umenohana is definitely one of those restaurants to take visiting friends and family to. The staff is warm and welcoming, and the “Japan-ness” of the encounter is second to none, with some great photo opps and interesting conversation points amongst scrumptious food and drink guaranteed.

Please check the website below for restaurant locations and booking information:
http://www.umenohana.co.jp/e/index.html

Note: Prices and menu offerings may vary slightly between restaurants. These prices have been taken from Umenohana, Ginza.

AUTHOR: ELISABETH LAMBERT